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Ethical Conversations

Ethical Conversations: A Talk with Mud Jeans

”It is funny seeing the surprised look on their faces when they have found a perfect pair of jeans. The misconception is that sustainable clothing is not fashionable.” - Bert van Son, CEO and founder, Mud Jeans

18 JULY 2024
Otrium is committed to the mission that all clothing produced should be worn. While no item or fashion brand can be perfectly 'ethical,' there are many areas where brands can make significant improvements. We want to support fashion companies striving for more responsible fashion and empower consumers to understand what this journey entails.
To offer an objective perspective on the responsibility journey of the brands featured on Otrium, we have collaborated with industry rating specialists from Good On You. This partnership makes it easier for our members to find “Ethically rated” items and support brands working to create a better fashion industry. Most brands on our platform are rated by Good On You, and “Ethically rated” items come from those fashion companies with scores of 3/5 (It's a start), 4/5 (Good) or 5/5 (Great). More information about the ratings can be found on this page.
In our Ethical  Conversations series, we’re exploring the approaches of “Ethically rated” brands featured on Otrium. This time, we chatted with Bert, founder of Mud Jeans, and Lea, a member of their sustainability team.
Tell me, who are you, and what is your role at Mud Jeans?
Bert: My name is Bert van Son, and I founded Mud Jeans. With 30 years of experience, I’ve seen fast fashion's negative impact on the environment. This motivated me to seek a better alternative. In 2012, I introduced the "Lease A Jeans" concept, allowing customers to lease jeans and after use return them for recycling. This initiative reduces waste and promotes a circular economy in fashion, enabling customers to renew their wardrobes more sustainably.
Lea: Hi, I'm Lea, and I studied Sustainability Science, Policy & Society at Maastricht University. My passion for fashion and the well-being of people and the planet led me to a career in sustainable fashion. I am happy to be working at Mud Jeans, where I manage all aspects of corporate responsibility. 
Where did it all start for Mud Jeans?
Bert: I've been in the fashion industry for quite some time. I started my career in Taiwan and later in Hong Kong, where I saw the industry transform into something I didn't like—dreadful production processes, poor working conditions, you know the story… Wanting to make a change, I sold my previous company and used the funds to start Mud Jeans. I specifically chose jeans because I realised that to truly do something different, I should focus on an item that is widely worn and has one of the most challenging supply chains.
What sustainability initiatives do Mud Jeans have?
Bert: One of our standout initiatives is our circular economy model. After customers have worn out their jeans, they can return them to us. We then send these pairs to Spain, where factories break the items down into their original raw materials. We reuse this bluish cotton, combined with new organic cotton, to create our jeans. Compared to industry-standard jeans, our production process uses significantly less water—about 25 minutes of showering versus 7.5 hours for a regular pair. Also, transparency is one of our core values: we strongly believe all companies should be truthful about their processes.
Lea: Additionally, we release a sustainability report and conduct a life cycle assessment (LCA) annually to provide detailed insights into our practices. Last year, we introduced an innovative LCA-based approach that evaluates our jeans against a hypothetical product with similar manufacturing processes but without more conscious materials.  This method goes beyond comparing our jeans against industry standards and allows us to make more accurate impact assessments. What's more, our approach to sustainability goes beyond environmental concerns and considers social responsibility. We prioritise fair wages and good working conditions throughout our supply chain so that our practices benefit both people and the planet.
How do you involve consumers in sustainability?
Bert: Since 2012, we've encouraged consumers to return their jeans after they’ve worn them out. This concept of retaining ownership of materials and offering jeans on a leasing basis demonstrates our commitment to being different. While we primarily appeal to environmentally conscious consumers—which we call dark green customers—we want to reach a broader audience, as more responsible purchasing benefits everyone.
Lea: We aim to share the Mud Jeans story with all segments and sell our jeans to every consumer. However, effectively communicating our efforts to various audiences remains an ongoing challenge. You don’t want to bore people with the same story, but you can’t keep quiet either. 
What sets Mud Jeans apart?
Bert: At Mud Jeans, circularity is at the core of everything we do. We're dedicated to reclaiming our products after use and creating a closed-loop, post-consumer waste denim process named “Denim Reborn”. Also, initiatives like "Lease a Jeans" and maintaining close relationships with our supply chain partners show our commitment.
What is the biggest challenge for you when it comes to sustainability?
Bert: We want to inform people about everything we do while also attracting them with the good fit and nice wash. Balancing this desire to communicate our efforts with the need to appeal to consumers is a challenge. Moreover, being a volume-driven industry, maintaining competitive prices while adhering to better practices remains an ongoing struggle.
Lea: I also see societal challenges, which are increased by rapidly changing consumer trends. People see so much fashion content on TikTok and Instagram that they feel they need to have it all. We’re trying to come up with innovative solutions to keep up with the trends sustainably, but it is rather difficult!
What are the main goals for Mud Jeans?
Bert: Our ultimate goal is to produce jeans made entirely from post-consumer waste. While we've made significant steps and currently incorporate up to 40% recycled materials into our jeans, achieving 100% recycled denim remains our ambition.
What is going well in the fashion industry?
Lea: Positive developments happening in this industry are increased sustainability regulations. Regulations play a crucial role in forcing companies in the fashion industry to adopt more responsible practices, closing the gap between awareness and action.
And what really needs to change?
Bert: For the industry to change, a collective effort involving manufacturers, government intervention, and consumer behaviour change is necessary. All three need to contribute to the transformation. Also, encouraging responsible production practices, enacting supportive legislation, and fostering a shift in consumer mindset are all important measures.
Lea: Examples like Renewcell's bankruptcy show the difference between consumer intentions and actions. Despite people wanting change regarding sustainability, there needs to be more consumer engagement to support innovation, emphasising the need for efforts across those three fronts Bert mentioned [i.e. encouraging responsible production practices, enacting supportive legislation, and fostering a shift in consumer mindset].
What is the biggest misconception about sustainable clothing?
Bert: One prevalent misconception about sustainable clothing is that it is not fashionable. People are often pleasantly surprised by the quality and looks of our jeans, despite them being labelled as more sustainable. Some consumers are just not used to purchasing more sustainable products and associate them with a hippie or bohemian aesthetic. 
Name a change consumers could make to become more conscious.
Bert: The most important adjustment consumers should make is to prioritise quality over quantity. Buying one high-quality pair of jeans is more conscious than purchasing multiple low-quality options. Consumers should think of spending money like voting with their wallets and supporting companies that are doing something good for people and the planet. 
P.S. TIP: Watch the documentary "True Cost" and read the book "Doughnut Economy" for further insights into sustainable practices.

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Ethical Conversations

Ethical Conversations: A Talk with Nubikk

Otrium is committed to the mission that all clothing produced should be worn. While no item or fashion brand can be perfectly 'ethical,' there are many areas where brands can make significant improvements. We want to support fashion companies striving for more responsible fashion and empower consumers to understand what this journey entails.To offer an objective perspective on the responsibility journey of the brands featured on Otrium, we have collaborated with industry rating specialists from Good On You. This partnership makes it easier for our members to find “Ethically rated” items and support brands working to create a better fashion industry. Most brands on our platform are rated by Good On You, and “Ethically rated” items come from those fashion companies with scores of 3/5 (It's a start), 4/5 (Good) or 5/5 (Great). More information about the ratings can be found on undefined. In our Ethical  Conversations series, we’re exploring the approaches of “Ethically rated” brands featured on Otrium. This time, we spoke with Nubikk. The brand’s Operations Manager, Inge, and Marketing Manager, Leontine explained how they try to conduct business in a more responsible way.How did Nubikk’s journey towards a more responsible approach begin?It all started with the founder, Daan Baeten. His reason for finding Nubikk was to create durable premium quality shoes. Around 6 years ago, we started accelerating our responsibility efforts, which was encouraged by one of our biggest clients: the Bijenkorf. They only wanted to work together with shoe brands that were audited and certified by several sustainability labels, like LWG or BSCI. At the time, we also became a member of the Leather Working Group (LWG) and encouraged our suppliers to work with certified leather only. What sustainability initiatives does Nubikk have?At Nubikk, we don't want to pretend to be at the forefront. But by weaving sustainability into our DNA, we are taking steps forward every day. Here are a few of our  initiatives:  1. We work on our supply chainWe produce our entire collection in Europe, mostly in Portugal. Also, our factories all adhere to our Code of Conduct and Business Social Compliance Initiative, ensuring that suppliers adhere to environmentally and socially responsible practices, with a particular focus on improving working conditions and labour rights. Moreover, our main leather suppliers are members of the Leather Working Group (LWG) and meet rigorous standards for responsible sourcing and reduced environmental impact.  2. We offer repair servicesWe strive to deliver perfect products, but damages or defects sometimes occur. In such cases, we try to repair the products through one of our experts. Only if repair isn’t possible do we offer an alternative solution. To extend the life of damaged shoes, for example, we provide our customers with eyelets, laces, and other parts. 3. We give returns a second chanceProducts that are returned or exchanged due to minor imperfections are given a second chance through a local sample sale or an external partner.  How do you involve consumers in sustainability?Something small we do is that we encourage our customers to return broken shoes for repairs, instead of throwing away a shoe because of a minor issue. In 2023 we successfully repaired 470 pairs. Next to this, we also provide informative content about our responsibility efforts on our website to help customers make informed decisions. How is Nubikk different from other shoe brands?Our mission statement, "Lightweight is our luxury standard," emphasises comfort and quality. All our shoes, from high-knee boots to sneakers, are lightweight, comfortable, and made from high-quality materials. We see that customers value this approach via their positive reviews. What is the biggest challenge for Nubikk when it comes to sustainability?The number of returns is a big sustainability challenge. Many consumers order two pairs of shoes and return the ones that don’t fit. To solve this, we try to inform our customers as much as possible. We offer a 3D and virtual try-on tool and an extensive Size Advice tool with a sizing chart and guide on our website. And what are your biggest goals?In addition to complying with the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive, we are committed to pursuing our own goals. One major objective is to map the environmental footprint of all our products and be able to show where each component is made. Next to this, our aim is to ensure that all our shoes are 100% LWG-certified. What is going well in the fashion industry?Environmental awareness is increasing within larger companies. Scandals often accelerate this trend. Although such scandals can be unfortunate for the brands involved, they do accelerate greater supply chain transparency.  … and what really needs to change?It’s unfortunate that many fast-fashion brands release excessive amounts of clothing each year. The focus should shift to producing timeless, high-quality pieces. Additionally, the volume of returns and their disposal is alarming. Fortunately, several organisations have developed innovative solutions to address the issue of returns. What is the biggest misconception about sustainable clothing?Many people might believe environmentally conscious clothing is boring, but it’s quite the opposite. A company's challenge is to make its responsibility story aesthetically pleasing.  Name a change that a consumer could make to become more environmentally conscious.When choosing shoes, consumers should opt for the ones that suit them and can be worn in many ways. Once the perfect pair is found, proper care is essential to ensure they last longer.
Otrium is committed to the mission that all clothing produced should be worn. While no item or fashion brand can be perfectly 'ethical,' there are many areas where brands can make significant improvements. We want to support fashion companies striving for more responsible fashion and empower consumers to understand what this journey entails.To offer an objective perspective on the responsibility journey of the brands featured on Otrium, we have collaborated with industry rating specialists from Good On You. This partnership makes it easier for our members to find “Ethically rated” items and support brands working to create a better fashion industry. Most brands on our platform are rated by Good On You, and “Ethically rated” items come from those fashion companies with scores of 3/5 (It's a start), 4/5 (Good) or 5/5 (Great). More information about the ratings can be found on undefined. In our Ethical  Conversations series, we’re exploring the approaches of “Ethically rated” brands featured on Otrium. This time, we sat down with Dante6. Evelyne, the brand’s Co-Founder, and Emily, its Product Development & Sustainability Manager, provided insights into their commitment to responsible business practices. What sustainability initiatives does Dante6 have?Responsibility has been formally integrated into Dante6’s brand strategy and values since 2020. The focus on sustainability has only grown over the last few years, due to new regulations and customers' rising demands. At the moment, we are building a Responsibility Roadmap with our strategy consultant, encompassing our vision, mission, and objectives, which are aligned with the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). Some of our key areas of focus are using more responsible materials and improving the working conditions in the value chain. To ensure the protection of workers’ rights and improve environmental conditions in the supply chain, we are a member of Amfori’s Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI) and the Business Environmental Performance Initiative (BEPI). How do you involve consumers in sustainability?We conduct customer surveys regularly, which consistently show that consumers highly value sustainability. Also, our agents report that our wholesale customers appreciate and recognise our commitment to more ethical production. This is a great confirmation, yet for us, responsibility is a concept which is firmly embedded in our brand values. Therefore, at Dante6, we prioritise responsibility in all aspects of our business, without waiting for customer demand first.  How is Dante6 different from other fashion brands?Dante6 distinguishes itself by empowering women with timeless wardrobe essentials that inspire confidence and complement individual style perspectives. We aspire to make luxury accessible while ensuring comfort and self-expression. What is your biggest challenge?In comparison with conventional materials, more ethical options are often more expensive and generally require high minimum order quantities. We advocate for broader access to improved materials and more attainable prices through continued demand and industry collaboration.  Another challenge is (European) legislation. Practical implementation of packaging regulations, for instance, is taking place on a country level, which is difficult to navigate for a brand like ours, which is active in several European countries. And your biggest goals?For our responsibility policy, we've embraced the 17 UN SDGs, of which we picked 6 that are closest to our brand values. We defined 4 key pillars. As the backbone of our Responsible Policy, our focus is to develop a Responsible Materials Strategy and to support our business partners in ensuring the protection of workers’ rights. Next to that, we commit to the improvement of environmental conditions in the value chain and prioritise data analysis to better forecast production and reduce excess stock. Zooming out: what is going well in the fashion industry?One of the positive shifts in the fashion industry is heightened consumer awareness and advocacy. It’s also remarkable to observe the significant movement towards transparency that we have collectively embraced, particularly during COVID-19. Practices that were previously considered impossible are now embraced. For example, there is now much more openness from our suppliers in their communication about production.  … and what really needs to improve?It would help consumers to be more conscious of the work that has been put into a garment before they buy it. We believe a better understanding of the way garments are produced would help a higher valuation of the product. It could change the Take-Make-Waste approach which is so destructive for the planet.  Brands can take the lead in communicating about this, to inspire their customers and increase their understanding. On a European level, we hope that in the next few years, there will be more clarity in policies and that these policies will apply to all countries alike. This will decrease the hassle companies now have to undergo to abide by all the national laws. Lastly, we hope there will be measures to protect European brands from unfair competition of fast fashion concepts like Shein, which don’t care about healthy or fair working conditions for workers and are destroying the market.  Name a change that a consumer could make to become more environmentally conscious.Consumers can make a significant impact by cherishing their clothing, wearing it with care, minimising washing & machine drying, and donating it to charities once they no longer need the items.  It is so simple, yet effective.
Otrium is committed to the mission that all clothing produced should be worn. While no item or fashion brand can be perfectly 'ethical,' there are many areas where brands can make significant improvements. We want to support fashion companies striving for more responsible fashion and empower consumers to understand what this journey entails.To offer an objective perspective on the responsibility journey of the brands featured on Otrium, we have collaborated with industry rating specialists from Good On You. This partnership makes it easier for our members to find “Ethically rated” items and support brands working to create a better fashion industry. Most brands on our platform are rated by Good On You, and “Ethically rated” items come from those fashion companies with scores of 3/5 (It's a start), 4/5 (Good) or 5/5 (Great). More information about the ratings can be found on undefined. In our Ethical  Conversations series, we explore the approaches of “Ethically rated” brands featured on Otrium. For this interview, we spoke with Anke, Juliana, and Alexandra from the Hunkemöller’s ESG Team.  Has sustainability always been a part of Hunkemöller?Anke: The textile industry is the second most polluting industry in the world and has unfortunately been in the limelight for other malpractices. Recognising the importance of addressing these issues, Hunkemöller formalised its sustainability efforts in 2019 with the launch of Together Tomorrow. With this initiative, we started looking at improving our commitments regarding the planet and people.  What sustainability initiatives are you working on?Anke: We've got many small initiatives. However, a big project that will radically transform everything we do is our commitment to setting Science Based Targets (SBTs). The SBTs will influence various fundamental aspects of our operations - such as material usage, packaging, and transport, ultimately driving the progress on other smaller initiatives as well. Alexandra: For instance, our efforts to incorporate preferred materials reduce the carbon footprint and align with the SBT objectives. Also, the data collection involved in SBT feeds into environmental compliance efforts, such as the digital product passport and extended producer responsibility.  And how do you involve your customers in the topic of sustainability?Anke: Involving the customers in sustainability is a big challenge. Take, for instance, our "Bring back sexy" campaign aimed at promoting circularity. It wasn't successful, as consumers are unlikely to return their worn bras. We generally need to be more vocal about our initiatives. My personal philosophy is to ensure products are more sustainable from the start, reducing the need to persuade consumers to get involved in sustainability. Juliana: We have successfully launched two sustainable collections, Josefina and Wies. The Wies collection even earned us the prestigious Green Product Award, which made the entire team excited. By highlighting these initiatives, we've increased consumer engagement regarding sustainability. The response to both collections was very excellent, and they sold out quickly. What makes Hunkemöller different from other fashion brands?Anke & Juliana: We are a brand that is driven by women for women, with a strong focus on inclusion and diversity. They define who we are as a brand and how we operate as an organisation. We are committed to creating a more inclusive & diverse industry for all, and I believe that this is what sets us apart. What is the biggest challenge when it comes to innovation?Anke: People often forget that a bra is a very technical product, with 30 to 50 different components. Improving the impact of a bra requires changes in each of these components, which takes a lot of time. This is why we won the Green Product Award for our Wies collection. Scaling these practices takes even more time as the technology is still in the trial stages and not yet widely available. Moreover, our suppliers are scattered around the world, further complicating the process. So, addressing these challenges is where our biggest efforts are focused. What are your main goals?Juliana: We are looking into sourcing more locally to shorten the value chain. While improved materials are needed, sourcing locally is equally important, and we aim to incorporate this into more of our collections. We are gradually implementing innovations, but there is still a long way to go…  Zooming out: what is going well in the fashion industry? Anke: In the last ten years, there has been a significant shift in how organisations view their impact and responsibility, which is exciting! Companies used to look at each other as competitors and now recognise that collaboration is key to finding solutions.  Alexandra: The developments in EU legislation are also promising. Even though legislation often progresses slowly and undergoes dilution, it's moving toward challenging the ultra-fast fashion mindset.  … and what really needs to change?Anke: Consumers need to critically evaluate their purchases. Is this item part of a trend, or will it be used long-term?  Alexandra: In addition to this shift in consumer mindset, more government support for innovative projects would help push a circular economy.  What is the biggest misconception about ethically made clothing?Anke: The most common misconception about socially responsible and environmentally friendly clothing is that it is untrendy and very costly. While preferred materials that are ‘relatively’ better for the environment have a higher price, investing in good quality means the item is more durable and can be worn longer. Also, more and more brands now offer a good combination of aesthetics and quality at a reasonable price.  How do you shop more responsibly as a consumer yourself? Alexandra: My key responsible shopping habits are investing in quality pieces, not following a (fast) fashion trend, and choosing items that stand the test of time. It all comes down to thinking consciously when buying something new. Simplicity is important, and adopting this mindset decreases excessive consumption. 

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